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THE JOYS OF BEAGLING





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ACC
K9 Servant


Feb 3, 2010, 6:07 AM

Post #26 of 50 (13306 views)
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Re: [ACC] THE JOYS OF BEAGLING [In reply to] Can't Post

UNDERSTAND YOUR BEAGLE'S TEMPERAMENT

Be forewarned: Beagles can be stubborn. this is part of their beautiful hound nature. In the field it's called "persistence" or "independence," just he qualities you want in a hunting dog who is expected to be smart enough to find the game. Furthermore, he/she will expect you to follow them, not the other way round. this is all well and good for hunting dogs, but when Beagles are household pets, their independent natures can pose something of a problem, especially to an owner so beguilded by the soft eyes and tender expression of this breed that she is completely misled about its true character: stubborn, willful, determinded, independent, obstinate, unyielding, uncompromising, strong willed, bullheaded, muleheaded, pigheaded, intractable, headstrong and tenacious.

Channel a Sense of Play... Because Beagles are fun-loving dogs, it makes sense that good Beagle teaching should rely on Beagle's sense of play. To do this, include games in your training sessions. Let your dog play a quick round of hide-and-seek for food, for instance. Even running around the room letting your dog chase you is a great tension reliever. (Don't chase them, though; this will only show him it's okay to run away from you, and that you'll follow.) Unfortunately, alot of dog teaching advise is written for Labrador retrievers, Border Collies and other workaholic breeds. What works for them won't necessarily work for Beagles. Beagles are dogs who are particularly interested in their physical environment; they much more closely attuned to smells and sounds of the woods than they are to you. This is part of their hunting heritage. they were bred to be independent searchers of game. to make your dog pay more attention to you than he does to anything else is a challenge. You have to provide him/her with a reason for listening.

Use Appropriate Eye Contact... one of the most important visual messages is transmitted through eye contact. In the dog world, dogs avoid gazing at each other unless issuing a challenge. Modern dogs have learned that our looking into their eyes is probably not meant as a prelude to an attack, but a prolonged stare will make most dogs nervous. Very dominant or aggressive dogs might stare back and then bite you. It's usually better just to look at the tip of a dog's ear unless he's very comfortable with you staring.

Socialization... Beagles are naturally sociable creature. they like everybody, including the elderly, children and other dogs. This is probably the world's least aggressive breed. Still, socialization is important,not to prevent your dog from becoming aggressive, but to help them develop a sense of confidence. Certain lines of Beagles appear to have genetically-based shyness. Getting your Beagle out and about and meeting lots of folks in lots of situations will help him develop into a secure and confident dog. In fact, if you have a puppy or undersocialized dog, try to expose him to 100 new people and many different positive situations within four months.


Next...Problem Behaviors


(This post was edited by ACC on Feb 3, 2010, 6:16 AM)


ACC
K9 Servant


Feb 3, 2010, 7:20 PM

Post #27 of 50 (13287 views)
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Re: [ACC] THE JOYS OF BEAGLING [In reply to] Can't Post

PROBLEM BEHAVIORS

The first thing to remember about a problem behavior is that for you it's a problem. for the dog, it's a reaction to completely different problem that he/she is experiencing. For example, let's say a dog is lonely or bored (that is his/her problem); solution might be to chew something, which you see as the problem. However, this action happens to relieve tension, and it provides the dog with something to do. it's a fact that every problem dog behavior is, for the dog, a solution to a problem. Fortunately, there are some adjustments that you can make that will help you and your dog live together in harmony:

Change Your Behavior... It may be that you are doing something, consciously or unconsciously, to produce the behavior you are trying to correct. For example, cuddling a frightened dog is guaranteed to reinforce the fearful behavior. It's easier to train yourself than to train your do, anyway.

Change Your Dog's Behavior... This may include teaching him/her to accept baths, obey basic commands, release toys and food and so forth. Naturally, to get your dog to behave differently, you will probably have to do something different yourself.

Build A Higher Fence, Confine The Dog, etc... Some canine behaviors are so ingrained that it may be impossible to train the dog out of them. If you can't retrain, you must restrain.

Medicate The Dog... Some bad behavior has medical cause. If this is the case, it may have a medical solution.

Medicate Yourself... Perhaps a nice cup of herbal tea will put you in a better temper.Wink

Get Used to It... This seems a bit harsh, but sometimes it's easier for everyone concerned. If your dog has a minor problem behavior that doesn't lend itself to any of tha above treatments, just ignore it.

One size does not fit all. The cure that works depends on the target behavior. its cause and yourpatience. the important thing to remember is that most inappropriate dog behaviors are "fixable." Consistent training (routines are great), fair leadership and patience are the keys. As leader, you are the one to make the decisions, control the resources (like food and attention), and set the boundaries. It's mostly common sense, especially if you stop in a while to think, "How does my dog perceive what I am doing?"


Next... Common Problems On Beagle.


(This post was edited by ACC on Feb 3, 2010, 7:26 PM)


ACC
K9 Servant


Feb 4, 2010, 5:09 AM

Post #28 of 50 (13275 views)
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Re: [ACC] THE JOYS OF BEAGLING [In reply to] Can't Post

COMMON PROBLEMS ON BEAGLE

Let's look at a few of the more common problems Beagle owners may face and at least some of the ways to deal with them.

Chewing... Most dog chewing is normal, although inconvenient. dogs chew because they are dogs. They don't do it to spite you but may resort to it if they are bored or lonely. For you, it's a problem, but for your Beagle, it's a sensible way to release energy and comfort himself/herself. Solution... If you are nervous about your dog chewing your belongings while you are gone, don't let it have access to them. Instead, provide him/her with plenty of acceptable things to chew on. Stuff hard, hollow toys with treats or give a big, tough rawhide. Stay away from dried or sterilized bones. Many of these are harder than tooth enamel and in fact are common cause of tooth breakage in dogs. The same is true for cow hooves. If you and your dog are outside, try burying the toys in a special digging pit you've made just for it. If your Beagle doesn't seem to enjoy toys, you may have to teach him/her to use them by playing with at the same time.

Stool Eating (Copraphagia)... The Beagle's tastes extend far beyond what many consider food. sometimes they eat feces-either their own or that of another dog or cat. Contrary to common belief, stool eating doesn't mean a dog has worms or is not eating a nutritionally balanced diet. Solution... To curb this habit, simply keep the yard or enclosure picked up. It my also help to feed your Beagle more frequently (but not a greater amount) to help reduce its appetite. A high fiber diet, which will make the dog feel fuller, may also help. Keep your Beagle busy, too. Bored dogs are more likely to take up this repulsive habit. And if all else fails, you can buy certain product to put in your dog's food that make his own feces unpalatable to them.

Digging... Beagles have good reasons for turning your yard into a minefield, even though the reason may not be apparent to you: 1. It could be hot (digging dow into the soft, cool soil is both entertaining and refreshing.) 2. It could be bored (he/she feel the need to do something to while away the empty hours, also beagles don't like to be left alone.) 3. It may be giving way to predatory instinct (there are a lot of moles and other underground prey scampering just below the earth's surface.) 4. It may be trying to escape (this can be combination of wanderlust, boredom, loneliness and predatory instinct-all the good game is outside the fence.) 5. She may be pregnant (you're looking at normal nesting behavior.) 6.It may be having fun (lots of dogs enjoy digging, especially in soft earth just for the fun of it, the way kids will play in a sandbox.) Solution... The answer to digging partly depends on the cause. If your Beagle is hot, bring him/her inside where it's cool. If your Beagle is bored or lonely, entertain, exercise and give them more of your company. Most people seriously under exercise their dogs. If it's trying to escape, make sure they can't. In some cases, this will require installing some cement below the fence line. If it's following predatory instincts, you'll have to either keep close eye, by simply take them in the house, caged or chain them up. If she is pregnant, find her a suitable whelping area or box. And if is digging for pure pleasure of it, install a sandbox full of fresh, soft earth in an appropriate place in your yard, and encourage it to dig there by loading it up with hidden bits of food and special toys. play there yourself until he/she gets the idea, and spray forbidden areas with dog repellent. There are plenty of them on the market. by the way, if you are fertilizing your lawn with bone or blood meal, the scent could be fooling your dog into believing there's something really good buried in your yard.

Jumping Up... many dogs jump up because we have taught them that is what we want. If you Beagle never received encouragement for doing this as a puppy, he/she wouldn't be doing it now. However, it's never too late to make a change, though it does require an unwavering consistency in the part of you and your guests to make it work. Solution... The best way to get your dog to stop jumping up is to not reward that behavior-not with a look or sound. When your dog jumps up, fold your arms and look away. Do not respond. If he continues, just walk away. Don't look at it. In fact, ignore completely. When it ceases jumping up, immediately get down to its level and reward with praise and attention. After a week or so, he/she will get the idea. The key is to make sure everyone understands that this is the treatment. Only then, with consistent effort, will it work. (to be con't)

Next... Common Problems On Beagle (Barking, Phobias, Shyness, Dominance & Aggression and Separation Anxiety.)


(This post was edited by ACC on Feb 4, 2010, 5:36 AM)


ACC
K9 Servant


Feb 4, 2010, 9:06 PM

Post #29 of 50 (13256 views)
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Re: [ACC] THE JOYS OF BEAGLING [In reply to] Can't Post

COMMON PROBLEMS ON BEAGLE

Barking... Barking is a natural behavior, but with Beagles it can be too much of good thing. Beagles consistently rank at or near the top of the "barking breeds" list. While it's nice to know that your Beagle will warn you of trespassers, strange-looking birds and a twig falling in the yard, sometimes it can be somewhat annoying, especially to the neighbors. Solution... If your dog barks to warn you of visitors, that's fine. Praise him/her for the barking and reassure them that all is well. If it continues to bark, ignore until stops. If your dog is barking to request something like treats or going for a run, deny the privilege until the dog ceases to bark, and then reward quiet behavior. If your Beagle is barking because he/she excited to be outside, bring it in the house or enclosure the second he/she starts to bark. They'll soon learn that barking results in being brought back into the house or being lock down.

Phobias... Dogs have recognized phobias, just as people do. Documented types include fear of thunder, firecrackers, gunshots, car travel, other dogs, odors and certain people. Solution... The best way to address a phobia is to desensitize and countercondition the dog to the feared object or event. This simply means to get the dog to associate the feared object or event with good things rather than bad things. For example, teach your Beagle to down-stay for food reward. Give the reward if the dog shows no fear response (panting, digging, pacing, etc). In the case of thunderphobia, you can try playing a recording of a thunderstorm, but many dogs won't respond to a recording in the same way that they will to actual event, which is composed of more than noise. Don't cuddle the dog as that will convince him/her there is something really wrong.

Shyness... Shyness is an inherited trait in some families of Beagles. It is not desirable but has often been allowed to remain because that particular line of dogs was superior in other ways. Among some hunting Beagles, certain shy Beagles continued to be bred because they could run the hair off a prey. This was a mistake, because these same shy Beagles became impossible to catch once the hunt was over. Solution... Shyness is extremely common in some lines of Beagles, and experts agree there is a genetic component involved. The same thing seems to be true in human beings-it all has to do with the amygdala structures in the brain. This means that a genetically shy Beagle cannot be trained out of being shy. However, careful socialization and proper training will help a shy dog become less shy. You can help your dog become more confident by exposing him/her to a multitude of positive experiences, including a fun puppy kindergarten or training class. Try walking your Beagle on a different path every day, and if he/she seems nervous, try jogging with them to distract him/her. Play with your dog a lot, letting it chase you. Crawl around on the floor at his/her level, and even try covering your face and making high-pitched, puppy-like noises. Avoid eye contact, which to dogs can be threatening. As your Beagle becomes less shy, try playing tug-of-war and allow it to win often. If you have other dogs, don't allow them to stare at your shy dog while he/she eating or trying to sleep. Give the dog a place of his/her own. A shy dog will also gain confidence if you sit down on the floor next to it, rather than towering above them. Never cuddle your shy dog, this just convinces him/her that something is really wrong. Also it's important to be calm, relaxed and nonstressed yourself. Some of that will wear off on your Beagle. Most importantly, never use any form of punishment on a shy dog! (to be con't)

Next... Common Problems On Beagle (Dominance & Aggression and Separation Anxiety)


(This post was edited by ACC on Feb 4, 2010, 9:07 PM)


ACC
K9 Servant


Feb 5, 2010, 5:55 AM

Post #30 of 50 (13237 views)
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COMMON PROBLEMS ON BEAGLE

Separation Anxiety... Separation anxiety is a self-perpetuating condition that occurs in response to being left alone. If manifests itself in panting, howling, abnormal drooling, barking and destructive chewing. It does no good to chastise a dog with this condition, because it really not in control of its own actions. Experts believe that the condition is caused by overstimulation of the parts of the brain that regulate fear and stress responses. Separation anxiety is a common condition in rescued Beagles;in fact it is most frequently seen in shelter or rescue dogs. These animals have already had a horrible experience with abandonment. Solution... In dogs with separation anxiety, it turns out that most destructive chewing occurs right after the owner leaves and just before he returns home, when the dog's anxiety level is highest. To avert the first, leave some chew toys around. By the time he/she done with them, it may be relaxed enough to stop chewing, at least for a few hours. To avert the second scenario, some owners teach their dogs do not greet the dog until he presents the toy. Within a few days, the dog figures out that it's a good idea to have a toy on hand in anticipation of the owner's return. As anxiety builds as the magic hour draws near, it begins to chew nervously on the toy rather than the furniture. Because Beagles are pack dogs, they may be comforted by the additional of another dog or even a cat, but don't count on it. (And don't get another pet merely in the hope that he/she will cure your dog's anxiety.) It's human companionship they crave, as a rule. But more than other breeds, Beagles can frequently be helped by additional of a fellow pet.


Dominance and Aggression... Only rarely do Beagles exhibit this distasteful behavior, but when they do, it's always serious and needs to be addressed. If your Beagle has ever bitten you (other than a misplaced nip when he/she was a puppy), you should talk to your vet and have a medical workup done. The vet may also be able to recommend a behaviorist. One of the scariest early signs of aggression is growl. However, a growl may not mean that your dog is about to tear you limb from limb. It's a form of communication like any other. Generally, it means "Back off". Dogs actually have different tones in their growls. A higher pitched growl, for example, usually means that the dog wants to be left alone. Lower growls may mean an attack is imminent. He/she may be afraid or in pain. The dog may be protecting its toys, turf or bed. It may be growling when cornering a mouse or rabbit. Dogs also growl in play, such as when playing tug-of-war. Solution... In general, it is best to respect a growling dog. Don't try to "show the dog who's boss." This is the kind of behavior that leads to being bitten. If your Beagle growls a you when you try to remove it from the chair, offer some cheese to get it off. Then, don't let the dog back on the chair. Establish a firm leadership and your dog will soon not think of challenging it. If it does, consult a behaviorist or your vet. Again, however, this nasty sort of behavior is extremely rare in Beagles. It's one of the reasons why Beagles are just about the best dogs in the world. A well-trained Beagle is a joy to be around. In fact, training will build his/her self-confidence, which in turn will help your dog become a valued companion and member of the family.

Next... Puppy Kindergarten And Dog Obedience School


(This post was edited by ACC on Feb 5, 2010, 6:00 AM)


ACC
K9 Servant


Feb 6, 2010, 5:19 AM

Post #31 of 50 (13205 views)
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PUPPY KINDERGARTEN AND DOG OBEDIENCE SCHOOL

Puppy kindergarten provides your Beagle puppy an opportunity to have fun with other youngsters in a friendly and relaxed environment. And you'll meet lots of fellow dog lovers, too! Just as important, your puppy will not only learn some basic commands, but will get practice going out for trips and learning to ride in the car. Some Beagles tend toward shyness, this is a great way to help them develop some confidence. When considering a training course, make sure you choose the right teacher. Not everyone understands the unique Beagle mentality, and some have the erroneous idea that Beagles are difficult (or impossible) to train. This is because many of them do most of their work with Labradors and Golden Retrievers, dogs who stand around waiting to be told what to do. Beagles are whole different school of fish, so to speak. Don't be afraid to ask questions before you begin the training course. Some questions you may want to ask include:

1. What is the instructor's formal education or experience? The best trainers don't necessarily need a degree in applied animal behavior, but it doesn't hurt to have one either.

2. What is the instructor's method of teaching? Does he/she rely on choke chains, force, or negative reinforcement, or does he/she advocate kind, positive training with lots of reward? (This latter type is the only one for a Beagle!)

3. To what professional organizations does the trainer belong? An organization or a foundation that advocates and specializes in nonviolent, positive training methods.

4. Does the trainer provide structured "homework?" Does he/she give out written handouts and summaries? Is he/she available for consultation? A trainer who does all of these things is ideal, although many good trainers may only do one or two of these things.

Be sure you know what you want your dog to get out of class. Most Beagles are not candidates for obedience titles, although it can be done. It's more reasonable to choose a class that emphasizes basic skills in fun atmosphere. If your Beagle turns out to be that rare obedience natural, you can move up to different class.


Next... Basic Training


(This post was edited by ACC on Feb 6, 2010, 5:26 AM)


ACC
K9 Servant


Feb 6, 2010, 7:10 PM

Post #32 of 50 (13193 views)
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BASIC TRAINING

Basic commands are best taught in a fun, secure, game-like environment. Not all Beagles are equally biddable. to learn if yours is, here's a quick test. Does your Beagle seem responsive to your moods? Does he/she appear sad or upset when you are? If so, he/she probably a responsive dog who will learn quickly, if only because he/she wants to please you. Less biddable dogs are trainable too. You will just have to be freer with treats. Speaking of treats, you will need to use treats to rain your food-oriented Beagle, but these don't have to be high-calorie items like cheese or even dog biscuits. Try healthy and inexpensive treats, like small bits of apple or carrot. Avoid grapes or raisins, as some dogs have been severely affected by an unknown toxin they contain. Often we think that basic of training are the words themselves, like sit, come or stay. However, many dogs respond better to visual cues and rewards. For example, if you say, "Let's go for a run" and your dog responds with unbridled enthusiasm, it just might be because the dog noticed you glancing towards the door and eying his/her leash. Beagles are alert to even the smallest gestures. As for your voice, its tone is just as important as the words you say, probably more so. If you say a sweet, happy tone, "Oh, you awful little Beagle, what a terrible bad boy you are!" he will probably wag his tail happily.


TRAINING ESSENTIALS

Today's Beagles lead tamer lives than their ancestors. Most never hunt rabbits and to succeed in contemporary society, Beagles need to learn basic good manners and obedience training. However, training can still be an enjoyable experience for both you and your dog. One way to make it so is to keep lessons short; five or ten minutes is plenty of time. Another way is to picka time when you are quiet and relaxed. It may help to have your Beagle burn off some of that extra energy first. Don't train when you're in a bad mood. You won't be effective, and your dog will sense your negative attitude.

Where To Train... Many experts believe that the best place to train your dog is in the kitchen. Most dogs have very positive feelings about kitchens, and positive feelings help reduce stress. If your dog has overly positive feelings about the kitchen, maybe you should select a more neutral spot. Whatever you choose, be sure to start indoors in a familiar place. The living room or recreation room may be good spots because they are generally large and familiar. Only when your Beagle responds perfectly inside should you take it outside. This is because the yard has too many distractions and there's no way a dog treat can compete with the scent of a cat or the sight of a squirrel and bird.

Think Like A Dog... Another essential training tool you should use is to think like a dog. This may sound difficult, but it really isn't. That's because dog think like people except that they are on somewhat simpler level. They are motivated by the same things that motivate us; self-interest. They may not be as sophisticated as we are at marketing that self-interest, but the motivation remains. They want to know what's in it for them, which could be things like games, walks, praise, petting and food. Teaching a dog is really much more about teaching ourselves than it is about teaching Spot. the first lesson we need to teach ourselves is that of patience. Dogs learn by repetition, and they do not learn when they are yelled at. Beagles are particularly unresponsive to yelling. They either turn their ears off, or the become nervous. Neither response is what you want! If you become impatient and unhappy, the only message your dog will receive is that you are impatient and unhappy. Your dog won't know why, but it probably conclude that danger is near and it'll become stressed. In a worst-case scenario, your dog decide you are angry with him/her, and it will become scared. Your dog should never, ever be afraid of you. A stressful environment is not conducive to learning or teaching. (to be con't)


(This post was edited by ACC on Feb 6, 2010, 7:12 PM)


ACC
K9 Servant


Feb 7, 2010, 9:18 PM

Post #33 of 50 (13162 views)
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Reward, Reward Reward... Beagles in particular have tremendous interest in food. that makes food perfect reward for training. And reward is the key to god dog training. Dogs work better in hope for reward than they do in fear of punishment. If a dog does something you like, he gets rewarded. If not, he/she doesn't. That's the simplest thing in the world. Forget wasteful, punitive, and cruel punishment-based training. These negative methods are not only cruel, they are not as successful as positive, reward-based training. However, in order for food reward to be successful, it must be given promptly within half a second of the action. The best food rewards are tasty and small (pea sized), if you want a treat the dog can swallow right away, with no chewing needed.

Treats... Beagles enjoy treats, so you might want to give him/her a tiny, pea-sized treat if it successfully eliminates outdoors or destinated areas. Bring the treat with you or keep some in your pocket. Don't be in a hurry to go back inside, because puppies often eliminate more than once. If it doesn't accomplish anything in ten minutes, take him/her back in for about a minute and then go out and try again. Odds are you'll be successful the second time. If it still doesn't work, do the in and back out thing until it does. And when he/she doe, don't hasten it back in the house. Let it walk or play. If it gets the idea that the minute he eliminates he/she has to go back in the boring house, it'll try to hold it as long as possible. That's not fun for either of you. A combination of play, treats, and praise is enough to convince most Beagles that house-training is great adventure.

Scheduling... The more watchful and observant you are, the more quickly you will house-train your Beagle. Puppies usually need to eliminate after they eat, drink, chew on toys, play vigorously and after they wake up from a nap. Pretty much all the time, in other words. Remember, they have tiny little bladders and not very good sphincter control. That's why scheduling regular feeding ad walking times is so important. Feed and walk your Beagle at the same time every day. Dogs really hate unpredictibility and a dog who is continually exposed to a routineless existence will become shy and less confident.

Confinement... When you are away from home, confine your dog to safe, tiled area like bathroom, kitchen, crate or cage. Give him/her something to lay with while it's in there, like a good chew toy for instance. Don't leave him/her alone in the crate any longer than you can reasonably expect it to hold it, which is no more than a couple of hours for a young puppy. If possible, hire a pet walker to help out. Beagles are very different from many other dogs about their sleeping quarters. Beagles in some circles do the unthinkable-they actually mark their sleeping quarters by urinating on them. This is not common in other breeds, although it is apparently common protocol among some Beagles. The only way out of this is to hope it happens just once, or you might try placing the blankets marked with their scent inside the crate. This may prevent it from urinating on them in the future.

Accidents... If an accident does occur, clean it up promptly without reacting to it. You should never yell at your Beagle, hit him/her, or rub his nose in it. If you actually catch it in the act, clap your hands to startle it and scoop him/her up with its tail between its legs, say,"Out!" in an excited but not angry voice. reward him/her for doing the right thing when it does eliminate accordingly.

Next... Fundamentals Of Obedience


(This post was edited by ACC on Feb 7, 2010, 9:26 PM)


ACC
K9 Servant


Feb 8, 2010, 10:01 PM

Post #34 of 50 (13132 views)
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FUNDAMENTALS OF OBEDIENCE

The following are the fundamentals of obedience that all Beagles should know. Remember to speak in a crisp, cheerful determined voice during training sessions, and be happy but firm. Use short words for commands, because they are quicker for you to say and easier for the dog to remember, and always end your training sessions on a positive note. You can accomplish this by asking your dog to do something he/she likes and at which it will always succeed. Then, reward your dog!

Come.. Begin with your Beagle on an 18"-20" rope. Let it wander off and then call him/her to you while saying the command in an excited, happy voice: "Come!" If it comes, reward by giving a small treat or some affection; if it doesn't come, gently pull the dog to you and reward him/her when it gets to you. Practice this for 5 minutes at most. You can even try using a whistle. Most Beagles respond better to a whistle than voice or hand commands. Get yourself a stainless steel "referee" whistle with a lanyard attached. The classic whistle command for a Beagle is 3 sharp blows on the whistle for the come command. To train your Beagle to come using a whistle, start in a small area and bring your bag of treats. Sit right down in front of the pup/dog and blow the whistle 3 times softly. Then, hand over a treat. This is basically the same method as clicker training, but Beagles tend to run too far to hear the sound of a clicker. Anyway, do this a few times and then go play. Repeat couple of hours later, and stand farther away from your dog. Soon it'll associate the sound of the whistle with you, petting and treats. A word of warning though, this might not work if your Beagle has found a cat. It would require higher level of training.

Whoa!... This emergency field command is a lifesaver. Its purpose is to get your Beagle to stop whatever he/she doing immediately. It's most useful when your Beagle has escaped from the house and it's headed directly into the street. Calling, "Come" might tell your Beagle that you want him/her home, but it opt to make a large circle while doing so right into the traffic. Saying, "Whoa!" tells your dog to stop at once. Once it halts, you can walk over to it and snap on the leash. To begin teaching, you need a plain collar (not a choke chain), a leash, and a long line. Start with the regular lead. While it is standing still (as you want it to), say "whoa!" Then, praise or treat it, but keep standing. after a short period of praise, say, "Release!" and play (but don't run) with him/her. then try again, soon he/she should associate "Whoa!" with standing still and receiving a treat. As time goes on, use the long line instead of the regular leash. This allows you more distance but also more control. If you dog doesn't to "Whoa!", stop it with the lead. When it stops, praise and treat him/her, or play with it some more. It's very important that his/her reward is not a run. You want to connect the whole procedure of stopping and staying with praise and food. When your dog stops reliably on a lead, you can try it off lead. Use your backyard or some other fenced up area for starters. If you have done a good, thorough on with "Whoa!", you just might save your Beagle's life. You can never absolutely count on a dog obeying your commands, however, so even with an apparently completely obedient Beagle, it's not wise to allow him/her off lead in the hopes that "Whoa!" will automatically save its run into traffic. A 5-10 minutes training session is sufficient.

Leave It... This simple command is also a lifesaver. Dogs are forever getting into garbage and poisons, not to mention your own dinner. Start teaching him/her by waiting until he/she is chewing on an object that it really doesn't care that much about (it should also be one that's not important to you either). As it's chewing, go up to your dog,and say, "Leave It!" Offer a treat in exchange. Practice several times a day, and always offer the dog a treat that he/she likes better (like bacon or cheese) than whatever it's chewing. You want to reinforce that it'll be richly rewarded, not given a mere sop like a dog biscuit. In real life, you would be most likely to use this command when your dog has gotten into something truly heady like a chicken carcass, so your established reward needs to be very powerful. You probably won't have any bacon actually on hand when the chicken carcass event occurs, but it's okay to cheat that one time and just reward him/her with a biscuit. Afterwards, practice the "Leave It!" command several more times with your accustomed treat and plenty of praise. (to be con't)


(This post was edited by ACC on Feb 8, 2010, 10:10 PM)


ACC
K9 Servant


Feb 9, 2010, 7:27 AM

Post #35 of 50 (13120 views)
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Re: [ACC] THE JOYS OF BEAGLING [In reply to] Can't Post

FUNDAMENTALS OF OBEDIENCE

Off... The funny thing about Beagles is that they always tend to be on something when you want them off. The answer is not necessarily disallowing the privilege of furniture but teaching them a positive rather than a negative command. Say,"Off!" in a cheerful voice and lure your dog with a treat and praise. Of course, if you never want him/her on that piece of furniture, you can use your dark growly voice, but if you just want to move him/her temporarily the off commands works very well.

Wait... Sit is an easy command to teach, but it is often used inappropriately, usually when the owner really wants the dog to stay sill, get out of the way or not make a nuisance of itself. The catch-all phrase "sit, boy/gal" is supposed to magically cure all the bad habits your dog has established. It doesn't of course, and it's much better to work on actually curing your dog's bad habits (like jumping up) than to tell him/her to sit every time it does them. Think of it this way: Most of the time, when you ask your dog to sit, you really would be happy if it just stood there quietly. If that's what you want, that's what you must teach. Sit is a useful command. I ask my dogs to sit before I give them treat, or hand them play toys, because it's easier for me to find their mouths that way. It's useful as a prelude to nail clipping. And it's a simple trick for children to practice with the family dog. But it's no substitute for good all-around behavior. The easiest way to teach the sit is to say, "Sit" in a cheerful voice while holding a treat over its head. Then gently start curving the treat backward over the dog's head. Most dogs will sit naturally. Praise it and give the treat. In the few cases where this doesn't work, you may press very gently down on the Beagle's backside, saying "Sit." Do not force it to do this; encourage him/her. Nothing about the training should be uncomfortable. When your Beagle succeeds, praise him/her softly and while it is still sitting, give the treat. If it gets up too quickly, refrain from treating. The dog needs to learn that the treat comes only when it is actually sitting.

Stay... Although some people teach the stay as a separate command, I prefer to use the sit, which means that my dog should sit until I say, "Okay!" I believe that teaching the stay as a separate command is confusing to dogs, because you're not asking them to do anything new, you're just asking them to keep doing what you have already asked them to do. However, other people believe that saying, "Stay" signals to the dog early that he/she will be sitting for quite some time. At any rate, never ask your dog to sit-stay for more than a few seconds when you are starting out. You want to make success easy for the dog. Teach stay by saying the word and slowly retreating. Reward it for remaining in one place. Again, quit while the training is still fun. The length of time you teach this command depends on your individual dog, but 5 minutes is usually long enough.

Down... Most dogs dislike being asked to lie down, although they are happy enough to do it on their own. This because "down" puts them in a physically and psychologically vulnerable position. To teach down, use the treat method again. While the dog is sitting, lower the treat slowly and move it towards the floor. Most dogs will lie down naturally. If yours doesn't after a few tries, you can gently extend his/her front legs and praise it as you ease the dog to the floor. Don't push down on your Beagle's shoulders to force it down; you can actually dislocate its shoulder in trying to coerce a stubborn Beagle. Remember, you want the dog to perform joyfully, not out of fear or pain. Keep the length of your training sessions short, preferably about 5 minutes. (to be con't)


(This post was edited by ACC on Feb 9, 2010, 7:36 AM)


ACC
K9 Servant


Feb 9, 2010, 10:36 PM

Post #36 of 50 (13110 views)
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Re: [ACC] THE JOYS OF BEAGLING [In reply to] Can't Post

FUNDAMENTALS OF OBEDIENCE

Heel... Your leash is your dog's best friend, as well as a necessary tool. Don't think of the leash as a restraining device; think of it as a way to stay close to your dog. With only a little encouragement, your Beagle will look forward happily to the sight of the leash being taken off its hook, because it means walk time! Because Beagles are rather small-medium dogs, you'd think it would be a cinch to teach them to walk calmly on a lead. It's really not very hard, although you'd never know it by the alarmingly large number of Beagle owners you see permanently entangled by their own leashes, while their Beagles dart merrily all around them. Before you start leash training your Beagle, give him/her a lot of free exercise. A somewhat tired dog will be more amenable to moving at a slow pace. Beagles like to go first. Remember that they are bred to be leaders on a hunt. To some extent you are working against Beagle nature when you are asking him/her to follow you. You must replace his natural hunting instinct with an equally natural instinct of "follow the leader." When it becomes convinced that you are the leader and that you know where the "pack" is supposed to go, he'll be more willing to follow.

Begin working with your Beagle when he/she is on a lead, not free. It should be responding to "come" command before you start teaching it to heel (which means to walk nicely on a lead at your heel). Enforce your command if necessary by kneeling and using a treat to lure him/her. Don't pull on the leash. Only use it to keep it from going in the other direction. Also, walk fast, at least at first. This will keep his/her attention directed straight ahead, where you want it while training. It is customary to have the dog walk on your left side, so if you plan to engage in formal obedience training, you might as well start with the correct practice right away. Start by keeping a little treat in your left hand. The point is to get the Beagle to believe that staying close to that appendage is likely to yield rewards. Because a Beagle is pretty low to the ground, however, bend down when you feed him/her. you don't want to get them in the habit of jumping up for the treat, that's unless some owners would want it that way.

Treat your dog frequently as you walk along, but only when it's in the correct heel position. To help position your dog, hold the leash behind your thigh. Start walking in a counterclockwise circle. Because your dog will be on the inside, you'll find it easier to guide him/her as you move along. Say,"heel!" in a bright voice and start walking. Don't scold him/her if it goes wrong direction. Soon, it'll realize that all the rewards come from staying near you. After your Beagle becomes accustomed to walking on the leash and you don't have to give him/her a treat every two seconds for walking politely, ask you dog to sit when you stop. Reward him/her when it does. Soon your Beagle will sit calmly by your side whenever you stop to chat with friends. If you do not want your Beagle to sit automatically at every stop, make sure you say, "Sit" before you give your dog a treat. Don't make every walk a lesson. Allow your Beagle plenty of time to snoop around and check things out, especially when you begin your walk. It may be exasperating to you, but Beagles really enjoy his part of the adventure. You can signal to your Beagle that a certain part of the walk is their turn to lead. I say, "You lead!" and start following him/her. This is very important also if you plan to participate in tracking with your Beagle.


Hope the above information would provide additional knowledge and a better understanding on Beagles. Cheers!


(This post was edited by ACC on Feb 9, 2010, 10:45 PM)


ACC
K9 Servant


Feb 13, 2010, 9:55 AM

Post #37 of 50 (13035 views)
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Re: [ACC] THE JOYS OF BEAGLING [In reply to] Can't Post

Additional information


IF YOU LOSE YOUR BEAGLE... Because they are wanderers, Beagles are even less likely to return home than are other dogs if they escape. Even when they are noticed wandering around a neighborhood, people often don't call authorities. They just don't feel threatened enough to worry about it. On the other hand, a Beagle is such a friendly dog thatif you're lucky, someone might find him/her and immediately call you. To help make your life easier in the event that your Beagle should become lost, keep a recent color photo of your dog on file, one that shows his/her markings. It actually doesn't hurt to preprint "Lost Dog" posters, just in case. Leave a space at the bottom to write when he/she was last seen. The bigger the print, the better. However, don't crowd the flyer with so much information that it's difficult to read.

If your Beagle does become lost, start looking for him/her immediately. the longer he/she is gone, the less likely it will be found. Usually, a dog will travel no more than 1 mile from home in any direction on the first day. But the second it may be 2 miles and so on. Contact your shelter and local vets in case he/she been brought there.Place posters everywhere, including vet clinics (but do remove them if and when your dog is found). Enlist the help of neighborhood, friends (could also from forum members) or even professional trackers to to search for missing dog. Give them instructions, too. If your dog is shy, tell them just keep an eye on it while they send someone to get you. Otherwise, they may tr to chase the dog, and he/she could run away from them.







(This post was edited by ACC on Feb 13, 2010, 9:58 AM)


ACC
K9 Servant


Feb 17, 2010, 7:18 AM

Post #38 of 50 (12929 views)
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Re: [ACC] THE JOYS OF BEAGLING [In reply to] Can't Post

  
Sparky a young adult male beagle (lemon white).
Jamie a young adult female beagle (tri-color)


(This post was edited by ACC on Feb 17, 2010, 7:49 AM)
Attachments: Sparky.doc (249 KB)
  Jamie.doc (218 KB)


ACC
K9 Servant


Feb 21, 2010, 2:47 AM

Post #39 of 50 (12827 views)
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Re: [ACC] THE JOYS OF BEAGLING [In reply to] Can't Post

Brandy adult female pocket beagle (tri-color)


(This post was edited by ACC on Feb 21, 2010, 2:51 AM)
Attachments: Brandy.doc (125 KB)


alanblastrac
Novice

Feb 23, 2010, 9:00 AM

Post #40 of 50 (12783 views)
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Re: [ACC] THE JOYS OF BEAGLING [In reply to] Can't Post

Thxs for d hint ACC Found u in another forum.I HAV BEAGLE MY SELF DID NOT RESCUE FRM STREET FRM A FRIEND SAID DOG DIRTY ..SHE LEFT IN A CAGE BIG ENUFF FOR A CAT .WEN SNOWBELL CAM TO ME CUTE SHE MAY SEEM WITH HER BIG ROUND EYES SHE NEVER LET ME SLEEP A WINK ..WEN I HIRE A DOG TRAINER HELP COPE THE PROBLEM..MY SHIT NEIGHBOURS WAS NOT MUCH HELP EITHER ..COMPLAIN MPSJ ...TODAY SNOWBELL WELL BEHAVE DOG SNOZZY THO AS BEAGLES R .

MY QUESTION TO U NOW ..WHY R U N PAKFUREN UP EACH OTHER ASS .

WHY ??? COZ I SMELL A RAT UP MY AD NOW

CAN U HELP ME ..END THE DAY FLUBBER THE ONE ..EFFECTED ..I NEED BE SURE ..WAT EVER U CAN HELP ME WIT KINDLY APPERCIATED


ACC
K9 Servant


Feb 23, 2010, 9:06 AM

Post #41 of 50 (12781 views)
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Re: [alanblastrac] THE JOYS OF BEAGLING [In reply to] Can't Post

You have to go to the thread I always refer him there.....you should be able to justify then...cheers!


alanblastrac
Novice

Feb 23, 2010, 5:14 PM

Post #42 of 50 (12755 views)
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Re: [ACC] THE JOYS OF BEAGLING [In reply to] Can't Post

OMG IM BIT LOST NOW ..WHICH THREAD R U ON ABOUT..THXS ..CHEERS


ACC
K9 Servant


Feb 23, 2010, 5:33 PM

Post #43 of 50 (12752 views)
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Re: [alanblastrac] THE JOYS OF BEAGLING [In reply to] Can't Post

You can always check a persons background by clicking at his/her ID....you can view their previous post and contributions. Once you have read, you be more inform...and if you done with those, can pm me regarding your beagle.


alanblastrac
Novice

Feb 23, 2010, 5:49 PM

Post #44 of 50 (12751 views)
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Re: [ACC] THE JOYS OF BEAGLING [In reply to] Can't Post

Oh Ya i did do bit of all those here on the site .As im rather new to tis site my self ..just need bit advice on wat to look out for as my nose smells a rat now on my ad ..since concerns flubber ..try be extra careful now .which ever way u can help me out ..be greatful

As for SNOWBELL ME BEAGLE DOG WAT SHE WAS WEN I GOT HER TO WAT SHE IS NOW ..TOTALLY AMAZING ...AM GLAD I HIRED A DOG TRAINER HELP ME COPE WIT SNOWBELL ANZIETY PROBLEMS.TRYING GET HER USE MY CATS NOW THO.SENSE BIT JEALOUSY WIT HER ..SHE LIKE FOOD MONSTER WANTING EAT CATS FOOD AS WELL.HAV GROWL AT HER EACH TIME ..ONLY THEN SHE KNOWS I MEAN BUSINESS.


ACC
K9 Servant


Feb 23, 2010, 5:56 PM

Post #45 of 50 (12748 views)
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Re: [alanblastrac] THE JOYS OF BEAGLING [In reply to] Can't Post

Have you located my email...send me a note.


alanblastrac
Novice

Feb 23, 2010, 6:10 PM

Post #46 of 50 (12744 views)
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Re: [ACC] THE JOYS OF BEAGLING [In reply to] Can't Post

Am still trying locate your email ..as i said still new here n guess bit blur at times .


ACC
K9 Servant


Feb 23, 2010, 6:14 PM

Post #47 of 50 (12743 views)
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Re: [alanblastrac] THE JOYS OF BEAGLING [In reply to] Can't Post

Go check yor email.


alanblastrac
Novice

Feb 23, 2010, 6:26 PM

Post #48 of 50 (12740 views)
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Re: [ACC] THE JOYS OF BEAGLING [In reply to] Can't Post

sent u a reply ..check your email ..cheers ..JOANNE


mae71
New User

Apr 19, 2010, 6:23 AM

Post #49 of 50 (12105 views)
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Re: [ACC] THE JOYS OF BEAGLING [In reply to] Can't Post

hi m new here thks for d info on beagles.was considering of adopting one but after reading yr post i couldnt possibly take care of them. very informative keep u d good work thks.


ACC
K9 Servant


Apr 19, 2010, 6:50 AM

Post #50 of 50 (12101 views)
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Re: [mae71] THE JOYS OF BEAGLING [In reply to] Can't Post

Hi and welcome to puppy.com... good to find out before committing, it helps in long term for both owners and their dogs.

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