lulugurl
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Jan 16, 2003, 4:07 AM
Post #29 of 37
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Re: [lulugurl] Unwanted Behaviour
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Vet Phobias
First, find yourself a good vet - preferably at a practice with several good vets, where you know who the dog will see, and that they get on with him. Most vets are good with dogs, but there are one or two who aren't. Some practices have locums, which means you can't tell who will see your dog. These practices are best avoided. You can find out from training classes and dog walking circles which vets are best at developing rapport with dogs. You want a confident vet who takes the time to say hello to your dog, carries out procedures calmly and efficiently, and sees nothing extraordinary in giving your dog a titbit afterwards (providing your dog can be trusted not to bite him!).
All painful procedures should be carried out with some sort of anaesthetic. There are some vets who think that broken and hanging claws, painful in themselves, can simply be yanked off with no anaesthetic. That is a dumb move if they want their canine clients to return willingly.
Try changing your vet if your dog has developed vet phobia from treatment at one particular place and is reluctant to go into the examination room there. The smells at the new vets may be similar, but it's a different location with no fear attached to it. Don't make a big fuss of the dog, just be calm and matter of fact. A titbit from a nice receptionist or vet nurse is usually welcome. You might also want to wait outside and play a little game of catch ball on the lead until your turn is called, if there's space, your dog is likely to be stressed in the waiting room with other dogs, and the receptionist doesn't mind.
Be kind to your vet, and muzzle your dog if he has ever bitten a human, unless the vet is aware of the risk and is dog-savvy enough to size up your dog and treat him without a muzzle. Vets often become dog-phobic because owners are less than honest about whether their dogs might bite. You can put titbits in the muzzle, and get your dog to put his nose in it voluntarily, and then put it on without doing it up, followed by a reward. Then do it up, leave it on for a short while, and take it off again, followed by a reward. Muzzles are less confrontational if put on from behind, with your head and the dog's aligned, but if your dog trusts you and associates muzzles with treats, this is not necessary. Never, ever, let anyone muzzle your dog unless they have excellent dog handling skills, because if the dog gets away with threatening them and they don't manage to muzzle him, he is likely to try using threats again, which will make veterinary treatment very difficult!
 ~Cherio~
Penang Lang? Click Here~!
Silkies Owner? Click Here~!
(This post was edited by lulugurl on Jan 16, 2003, 4:11 AM)
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